"Shantar Islands: Breath of the Whales No. 1" — Cruise No. 4

The first events on board: meeting the captain and crew, a safety briefing, and a welcome lunch. The first landmark is the stunningly beautiful Aniva Lighthouse on the eponymous cape. After rounding Cape Aniva, our vessel sets course northward, sailing along the eastern coast of Sakhalin.

In the center of the island is a low, flat rock. There are no trees, no shrubs, and no fresh water. Yet life here literally teems. Thousands of fur seals—packed body to body—cover the entire area of Tyuleniy Island. The remaining free spaces are occupied by other pinnipeds (Steller sea lions and spotted seals) and birds (the most noticeable of which are the slender-billed guillemots). The scene is completed by a few biologists who arrive each summer to study this incredible biodiversity. A few structures remain from the era of fur seal hunting. We will arrive at Tyuleniy Island in Zodiac inflatable boats, surrounded by these same pinnipeds, and explore these densely populated square meters of land reclaimed from the sea.

Along the way, we will encounter whales and orcas. If desired, we will stop and even launch the Zodiacs to get closer to them and capture some great shots!

Here lies a sort of "summer pasture" for one of the gray whale populations. Breeding in the Gulf of California, gray whales come singly or in groups to the shores of Sakhalin during the warm months to feast to their heart’s content. This feeding behavior differs from that of other whale species: the gray whale dives to the bottom and swallows tons of mud, filtering out worms, mollusks, and small fish.

The shallow waters of Piltun Bay make it the perfect place for this method of "feeding." We will venture into the bay on Zodiacs and carefully explore the area, hoping for multiple encounters with these majestic marine animals. In the distance, against the backdrop of whale tails, fins, and backs, you’ll see oil rigs. Don’t be surprised: northeastern Sakhalin is an area of active oil extraction.

Cape Elizabeth was named after Empress Elizabeth Alexeievna, wife of Emperor Alexander I, during Ivan Kruzenshtern’s expedition in 1805. Onshore, we will embark on a trek along the high, steep coastline and visit the Elizabeth Lighthouse.

The archipelago consists of 15 islands, with almost three-quarters of the total area belonging to Bolshoy Shantar Island. The climate is harsh: the coastal waters don’t clear of ice until July at the earliest, and a sunny morning can change to a gloomy, chilly afternoon in the blink of an eye. But visiting here is a true blessing. Our program in the Shantar Islands can be divided into two parts: "bowhead whales" and "everything else."

The vast majority of bowhead whales live in polar waters, with the Okhotsk Sea population being the southernmost. They are much larger and heavier than the gray whales familiar to us from Piltun Bay. To compare: 20 meters in length versus 12 meters, 90 tons versus 30 tons. Both bowhead and gray whales suffered catastrophic losses during the "whale fever" that swept the Sea of Okhotsk in the mid-19th century. At that time, whalers (mostly American) killed more whales each month than currently live here or visit annually.

Bowhead whales come to the Shantar Islands to socialize. The best spot for watching them is southeast of the archipelago, on the mainland. This unnamed bay near Cape Wrangel (commonly called Wrangel Bay by visitors for simplicity) is perhaps the best place on the planet for whale watching. The bowheads circle the bay for hours or "call" to each other by slapping their tails on the water’s surface. All you need to do is stand or sit on a SUP board, find a spot in the bay, and patiently wait for a majestic marine creature to swim by or loudly exhale nearby.

In addition to the peaceful bowhead whales, we may encounter predatory orcas. Among the pinnipeds, there are spotted seals (also known as sea hares), spotted seals, and ringed seals. On land, we will try to admire a brown bear that comes down to the river from a safe distance. The islands are teeming with birds, but the most fascinating is the white-shouldered sea eagle. It is one of the largest birds on the planet, with a wingspan exceeding two meters. On the Shantars, you can see not only several sea eagles flying at once but also their nests on high cliffs. The rocky shores with their unusual layers of stones, outcrops of semi-precious jasper, the dark needles of the local forests, wild northern berries, an abandoned lighthouse, and remnants of a pinniped processing factory — piece by piece, sea excursions and hiking will help us form a complete picture of the Shantar Islands.

These islands somewhat resemble Tyuleniy Island: they have a similarly small area and an equally astonishing abundance of life. The difference is that, in addition to gatherings of pinnipeds (including Steller sea lions, spotted seals, ribbon seals, bearded seals, and crested auklets) and bustling bird colonies (their most notable inhabitants are spectacled guillemots, ribbon seals, murres, planktivores, and puffins), there is also dense vegetation here. Those who prefer not to land on the islands can enjoy sea fishing right from the deck of the "Akademik Shokalskiy ".

Northern expeditions—including the Second Kamchatka Expedition led by Vitus Bering, which reached the shores of Alaska—began here. This settlement was also home to the fleet that became the foundation of Russia’s future Pacific Fleet. The Sea of Okhotsk is named after this settlement, which was founded in 1647, flourished in the 18th century, and lost its significance in the 19th. While strolling through Okhotsk and reflecting on its impressive history, we will visit the local history museum. Exhibits include fragments of old weapons and military reports, local minerals, and everyday items of the indigenous Evenks (formerly called Tungus; the line "and now the wild Tungus" from Pushkin’s famous poem refers to them).

The island covers just 2.5 square kilometers, which is still 50 times larger than Tyuleniy Island. It is the largest bird colony along our route. The local bird population numbers around half a million individuals. Among the more than 150 species found here, the most numerous is the thick-billed murre. This highly unusual bird is gifted by evolution with an orange beak, a playful crest, a "citrus" scent, and a "barking" call. Other notable species include penguin-like auklets and murrelets, spectacled guillemots, white-bellied murres, ancient murres, and common murres. We will reach this natural monument of federal significance by Zodiac boats. There, while observing and identifying the birds, we will climb to its flat summit to marvel at the breathtaking landscape.

Besides the brown bears we observed on the Shantar Islands, here you can also encounter snow sheep. However, you’ll need to climb higher to see them. Those who prefer to skip long hikes can stay aboard the "Akademik Shokalskiy" and enjoy some fishing.

The expedition is complete. It’s time to start thinking about the next one!